A Dull Day on the Western
Fans
Now that the clocks have gone forward and the weather's
getting better I decided to mark the start of the second
quarter of the year with a hill walk. Nothing strenuous, just a
gentle walk in the Western Fans. It's been quite a while since
I last went walking in the hills. The day started sunny, but by
the time I went out mid-afternoon it was completely overcast.
Not good for photos, but pleasant enough for walking.
I parked next to the quarries near Pen Rhiw-wen and started by
following the Beacons Way up to the tiny summit of Foel Fawr.
There's no real path here, the green diamonds of the Beacons
Way are a rough guideline rather than a physical route on the
ground (don't take them literally when heading west from Foel
Fawr or you'll walk over a cliff). Foel Fawr has a surprisingly
big cairn for such a small summit and is a good viewpoint.
From Foel Fawr I made my way up to Garreg Lwyd, passing a small
pool enroute. There was a slightly chilly breeze on the tops so
I put my hat on. I picked my way through the rocks to the
monster cairn on the summit. In spite of having seen it many
times, the cairn was as impressive as ever. I took the
obligatory self portrait at the summit, and marked a few GPS
waypoints as usual. My GPS was reading a few metres too high,
but it wasn't far off.
I headed east toward Foel Fraith, but not in a direct line due
to rough ground. I soon found a faint path which took me across
the col and up the gentle slope to Foel Fraith, and then tried
to take me past the indistinct summit on the north side (oddly
the Beacons Way takes you past the summit on the south side -
but it seems to be following a boundary line rather than an
actual path).
The summit of Foel Fraith has always been a bit of a
mystery, due to being very flat with undulating bumps (with
different bumps marked as the summit on the 25k, 50k and
Harveys maps), but a few years back a fancy cairn was built up
there. Myself and Bill Grey tried to determine if it was the
actual high point, and we concluded that it almost certainly
was. This time though, I couldn't see the cairn. So I began by
marking what looked like a possible high point, then I spotted
a group of stones on another bump nearby. Sure enough, it was
the remains of the cairn, I recognised the distinctly shaped
stone that had been placed at the top of the cairn. I marked
the spot and the position is almost identical to the spot
height on the 25k map. So if you're in doubt, trust the 25k
map. I've market the spot with my trekking poles in the photo
above.
The eastern summits of Mynydd Du could be seen from Foel Fraith
in hazy light. One shot above shows the large twin burial
mounds on top of Garreg Las, the other a large swallow hole on
Foel Frath with the Mynydd Du escarpment in the distance.
It was a very peaceful day, with no sounds other than the
twittering of birds. I didn't see any other walkers, except at
the car park. This is normal for these hills, a great place to
get away from it all.
I then turned back, heading for a swallow hole waypoint that
I'd loaded into my GPS, but when I got close enough to see it I
realised it wasn't the location I wanted, namely a tree filled
hollow which was a short distance to the NE of it. As I
approached I spotted an interesting pile of rocks and took some
photos of it.
Trees are virtually non-existent on this barren moorland, so
it's surprising to find one up here, sheltering in a tiny damp
hollow, possibly another swallow hole. There is a hole in the
ground here, next to the tree, a deep crack with animal bones
at the bottom. I don't know how deep it goes. This is a
pleasant sheltered spot for a rest, so I stopped for a snack of
walnuts and raisins.
After the tree filled hollow I made my way down to the Afon
Clydach, then followed it to the west, doing a little bog
hopping on the way, until some semblance of a path emerged.
There was no longer a breeze so it was quite pleasant in spite
of being so cloudy.
I then passed below Garreg Lwyd on my return route, heading
toward the limestone quarries at the end of the walk, which
have made a huge scar in the landscape.
I stopped at a small waterfall and took a few pics. Fortunately
I had my lightweight tripod with me so with the aid of the
Canon G9's built-in ND filter I was able to get some
respectably slow shutter speeds for that arty blurred effect.
It hadn't rained for quite some time so there was very little
water in the river.
Shortly after I passed the top of the Clydach waterfalls
proper. I took a few snaps from the top but declined to descend
to take some proper photos. That would have taken far too long
and the day was nearly at an end. Besides, with so little water
they wouldn't have been very impressive anyway.
Finally, I climbed the second steepest slope of the day back up
to the limestone quarry, marked with warnings to stay away from
the bases of the cliffs due to loose rocks. There's plenty to
see here if you're interested in this sort of thing, old kilns,
ruined buildings and so on. I have no idea what's shown in the
last photo.
I contoured around the hillside through the quarry and was soon
back at the car.
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